Airbrush Application Tricks Sure to Treat

By Michele Major and Lori Reiss

As technicians, we have all heard our clients say that they like to be tan because it makes them feel and look better. However, sometimes our clients need a little extra shading here and there to make them look more defined. If your clients happen to be competitive body builders, they will need a deeper tan with extra shading to display their physique. Whether your client wants defined abs and a thinner-looking waist or needs some shading to highlight facial features, you can successfully achieve their desired look with the right contouring technique.

Contouring Tricks

All of these techniques should be done prior to the full-body application. The reason is to allow extra dry time for certain areas and for the technician to properly blend the shading.

Body – Apply before you begin the full-body application.

Create the appearance of definition on the stomach by applying a strong vertical line down the center of the stomach. Look for the natural stomach muscle and apply two or three strong horizontal strokes from the left to the right. The strokes should only be 6 to 7 inches long.

Waist – Apply before you have completed the full-body application.

Create the appearance of a thin waistline by applying a heavy application of solution along the waistline from the side of the back to the side of the stomach.

Face – Apply after the first application to the face.

Create a shadow under the cheekbone to create the appearance of a more prominent cheekbone. To do this, have your client turn their head to the left. With your applicator upright (moving side to side), you will apply a thin line of solution from just before the ear, stopping before the ball of the cheek. Have your client turn their head to the right, and repeat. You can create a strong jaw line by adding additional solution to the underside of the jaw.

You can use this shading affect on any area of the body that a client would like to appear smaller, such as the inside thigh. Apply the solution to any area as you would a make-up bronzer to achieve a similar effect.

The HORROR of Airbrushing Hands & Feet

There is an unwritten rule in the airbrush community that you NEVER airbrush the hands and feet. The theory behind this is that the overspray from airbrushing the arms and legs will land on the hands and feet.

The flaw with this theory is two-fold:

1) If you are relying on overspray to cover specific areas, then you are either too far from the body or have the PSI setting on your applicator too open. Either way, you are not giving a personalized airbrush, you are hosing someone down. This wastes solution and is messy.

2) Overspray is not an accurate application of solution. It lands wherever it wants. Meaning, you are not in control of your technique and cannot predict the development outcome.

In addition, we have spoken to several technicians who slather barrier cream on their client’s hands and feet – only to get complaints that the bodies are tan but the hands and feet are white.

An expert airbrush technician will tell you that you can avoid using barrier cream and directly spray the hands and feet successfully simply by adjusting your technique and applicator.

First check the PSI on your applicator. The span of your spray should be no wider than 3 inches. Then review your technique. An airbrush application should be a choreographed set of steps that are designed specific to the body being airbrushed. This will ensure minimal overspray, allowing you to spray the hands and feet in a controlled manner.

If your application technique needs assistance, you should look into additional training. Many sunless companies offer a variety of different training options. Keep in mind that your favorite solution maker may not necessarily be the one who is an expert trainer. Do your homework. Check out training and demonstration videos on YouTube. If you see a cloud of overspray in the video, chances are that technique might not be the one you are looking for. It is also good to interview the company you intend to buy training from. Find out what qualifies them to be an application expert.

Beauty is not a new concept to Michele Major and Lori Reiss, the co-creators of Sol Potion®. With more than 20 years of experience in the beauty industry, they know what it takes to make people look gorgeous, yet natural. Sol Potion® creates, sells and supports a complete turnkey solution that includes sunless tanning products, a skincare line, training and customer support to salons, spas and distributors worldwide. To learn more, visit www.solpotion.com . To contact a representative directly, e-mail sales@solpotion.com. You can also check out the company’s videos at www.youtube.com/solpotion .