By Michele Major and Lori Reiss
Talk to any sunless professional and they will tell you that color is the most important factor when deciding on a spray tan solution. They want their formula to produce a rich golden tan that keeps their clients begging for more. However, the quest to find this solution can lead an airbrush technician down several wrong paths if they do not know what to look for.
DHA is what it is…
Most technicians know that depth of color will depend on the percentage of DHA in the formula. But beyond that, their knowledge gets fuzzy. That’s because many people confuse the temporary bronzers with DHA. We frequently hear our clients say, “I don’t want a solution that has any red.” Or “I want my solution to have ash (e.g. green) in it.” The common misconception with these requests is there is no such thing as ash-based or red-based DHA. DHA has no base. It is a clear liquid that stains the skin. The depth of stain depends on the percentage of DHA used in the solution. How it develops on the skin depends on the level of DHA used and other ingredients found in the overall formula.
Bronzers: Ash Verses Red
Bronzers are a temporary color added to the solution to assist the technician with the application process. They also give a pop of color for the client to see while the DHA develops. This is a short-term coloring, similar to certain types of makeup that wash off immediately. It is not representative of the final color.
There are several ways to mix colors when creating the brown found in most bronzers. The ratios used will determine if they have an ash or red base. The most common formula is a combination of equal parts red and green. Solutions that have an ash-base bronzer use more green than red. Conversely, a red-base bronzer has more red than green.
So what happens when you use a red-base bronzer on a red-undertone client? You get a red-brown coloring. What happens when you put an ash-based bronzer on an olive or yellow skin tone? You get a dull muddy color. The key thing to remember is that bronzers have absolutely no bearing on the development of the DHA, but they will affect how the client looks while it develops.
Why is one solution different from another?
There are essentially three different types of formulas that are the starting point for sunless solutions:
•Glycerin Based (oil based) – Has thicker consistency that attracts moisture to the skin but it takes longer to dry.
•Water Based (non-oil based) – Mainly has a thinner consistency. But many times the added ingredients (e.g. aloe; vitamins A, C and E; etc.) thicken the solution.
•Quick Dry (non-oil based) – Contains higher alcohol content and has a thinner consistency.
A manufacturer may add other ingredients to the formula to enhance the viscosity, fade time, dry time and fragrance. These ingredients will determine how well the DHA develops on the skin, but it will not give an ash- or red-base tan.
Ingredients and Bronzers and DHA ... Oh My!
So, how does all this gibberish about ingredients, bronzers and DHA help you decide which solution to purchase? The answer to that depends on your preference. There is no “one size fits all” with airbrush solution. While some people love a solution with a thicker consistency, others like thinner. Some like bronzers, others do not. There are some key things to consider when you are looking for airbrush solutions:
1. Where do you live?
If you live in a hot or humid climate, you may want to consider a quick-dry formula which is non-oil based. If you live in a cooler, dryer state, you may want to consider using a water- or Glycerin-based solution for the winter months.
2. What type of consistency do you like to work with?
If you have a hard time controlling your application technique with a thinner solution, don’t use it. Go for a thicker-base solution.
3. Are there enough levels of DHA to work with several skin tones?
Make sure you have enough DHA percentages on hand to work with all skin types.
4. Does it dry in a timely fashion?
Ideally, you want your clients to dry in five minutes.
5. Is it too tacky? (texturally speaking!)
All solutions will be slightly tacky. If the solution is tacky for longer than an hour you may want to consider a thinner viscosity.
6. Is the fragrance tolerable?
Keep in mind that not all people want to smell like a coconut. Pick a solution that is either fragrance-free or has a light fresh scent. Remember your clients will wear it for eight to 12 hours, but you and your technicians will smell it all day long.
Feel free to trick-or-treat for different solutions. Don't let the fear of orange keep you from trying a new formula. The trick is not to over spray a client or use a solution that is too dark for their skin tone. The treat may be discovering a great new formula, or realizing the best solution is the one you are currently using.
Beauty is not a new concept to Michele Major and Lori Reiss, the co-creators of Sol Potion™. Their 26-year friendship and desire for a beautiful sunless tan helped them to develop a business with a solid purpose: Offer a product that salons and spas will love to use and their clients will love the result. Sol Potion™ offers customized sunless tanning solutions for both professional and personal use. Sol Potion™ creates sells and supports a complete turn-key solution which includes sunless tanning products, a skincare line, training and customer support to the health and beauty industry. To learn more about Sol Potion™ visit www.solpotion.com .
