For the past ten years, the sunless segment has been a popular add-on to salon services. The sunless boom began in 1999 and took off in 2000 as a way for salon operators to reach new generations of tanners and open the doors to an emerging market. By 2006, salons reported that sunless sessions continued to be popular, but session prices were dropping due to increased competition.
On the negative side, many salons were slashing prices or using scare tactics to increase sunless sales. This only hurts the industry, as we are now fighting for mass-market sunless dollars. We are battling a huge anti-tanning coalition that now includes the cosmetic giants and medical associations. We must market these services as a complement to UV tanning or an alternative to tanning for those individuals who cannot or should not tan indoors or outdoors.
Like any service in any industry, sunless is enjoying the fruits of improved technology and healthy competition. The benefits are clear to salon operators as well as consumers.
In the past, salons needed a hefty chunk of change—at least $30,000—to purchase a sunless stand-up spray booth. It was quite an investment, especially for a previously unproven ancillary service. Now, times have changed.
Manufacturers have had years to refine their products, and they know salon owners are shopping around for the best units at competitive prices.
Today’s sunless stand-up equipment can still be bought for $30,000 or more, but those machines contain state-of-the-art components to deliver more bang for the buck. Plus, sunless is a bona-fide winner for countless salons, making the investment worthwhile.
However, the biggest window of opportunity has come at the lower end of the price range. High-quality booths selling for as low as $12,000 allows more salons to be able to enter the sunless market.
Finally, handheld sunless units are priced as low as just a few hundred dollars. Other costs associated with sunless, such as solution, are dropping as well. Any salon that wants to can afford to offer sunless.
Besides the lowering entry cost for sunless, the ease of setup always is a major appeal to salon owners. Many of today’s stand-up units are self-contained or require very little extra plumbing or electrical.
The allure of sunless also is increasing from the customer’s perspective. There is a greater variety of retail sunless products with new-age ingredients that yield natural-looking, long-lasting tans. Also, session prices for booth and handheld applications are dropping, and the steadily improving technology of the solution is leading to more realistic results.
Of the two types of application, both airbrush and spray booth tans continue to develop for about 24 hours after the session and last about seven to 10 days, fading according to the body’s natural exfoliation process.
Booth Technology
Spray-tan booths are one option in sunless tanning. Most booths are enclosed standups and feature an automated spray which mists the sunless tanning solution over the entire body. During this quick process (which ranges from a few seconds to a few minutes), the person being sprayed moves in a slow circle and poses in various positions to ensure that all exposed skin is covered by the tanning solution. The biggest benefits of standups are the quick process and the fact that a technician usually is not needed—which means clients have greater privacy and salon employees are able to do other duties while someone spray tans.
Airbrush/HVLP Systems
Handheld sunless systems don’t have the same privacy factor as stand-up units, but customers don’t seem to mind. Many enjoy the personal attention from technicians. These systems can be had at a fraction of the cost of standup units, making them affordable for a large number of salons.
Salons also can get up and running quickly and easily, leading to a rapid return on investment. Plus, the salon can charge a premium for the service because it requires the constant attention of a technician who applies the sunless solution to the client.
Airbrush spray tans are applied by professional technicians using specialized equipment designed for applying self-tanning sprays, such as an airbrush or HVLP/turbine spraygun.
Sunless airbrush machines are driven by an air compressor and deliver a concentrated focus of spray solution.
HVLP sprayguns are run via turbine motors. By contrast, turbine applications are much quicker—some manufacturers claim sessions as short as four minutes—and the high volume of low-pressure “soft” air flow allows solution to cover a greater area of the body more quickly. However, since these HVLP systems cover so much so fast, sometimes they aren’t suited for detailing. Some turbine spray guns can be adjusted to spray to small diameters or can be switched entirely to a gun made for body detailing. Also, manufacturers are beginning to create hybrid handheld units to blend the best of airbrush and HVLP/turbine.
Rather than the bulky machines of the early days, today’s handheld equipment is shrinking in size, making units more portable while maintaining their effectiveness. This allows salons more flexibility in terms of where to locate the airbrush or turbine, and also to use the free space for other profit centers.
Manufacturers are addressing noise concerns as well. Compression and turbine systems, by nature, produce loud sounds similar to a vacuum, which salon owners find contradictory to the relaxing environment of the tanning salon. Improved technology in the machines as well as the advent of noise-reduction cabinets have done well to quiet the airbrush or turbine sunless-tanning experience.
Efficiency is also rising as the airbrush and turbine equipment become smaller and quieter. Overspray has been a growing concern in the salon environment because it is simply wasted solution. It leads to greater clean-up demands from salon staff and higher costs to the salon owners who are forced to order solution more frequently. Manufacturers have invested lots of research and development into addressing the issue of overspray. Less overspray means the solution—and the investment in solution—goes further.
Price-wise, handheld airbrush units are a cost-effective sunless option in a salon—especially in one that is simply looking to see if sunless catches on in their area before committing to the investment of an automated standup.
Airbrush and turbine spray systems have also opened the door for two new types of sunless services: mobile spray-tanning and body contouring.
Mobile Spray Tanning
Mobile spray tanning provides a great way for clients to bring the salon to them, thus saving time and travel. For those considering going mobile, there are few things to consider:
Service. Great service is very important to your mobile tanning success. If you book an appointment at 2 p.m., make sure that you are there and ready to spray at 2 p.m. That includes being set up and informing the client(s) of the process ahead of time.
Price. Many people who offer mobile spray-tanning services have both individual and party rates. This is beneficial because prices can be discounted based on the number of people sprayed at one location. Salon owners like it because they are getting more done at one time, which is less hassle for them; clients like it because it offers the opportunity to host “spa parties” for their friends.
Extras. You want to have everything clients will need before, during and after their tanning session with you. This is not like being in your salon, where you can quickly run to the back and grab a product. Planning ahead and keeping an updated inventory of add-on products is key.
Cleanup. You must be prepared to clean up after yourself. Some people choose to carry pop-up tents specifically designed for spray tanning so that spray is contained. Others spray clients in the shower for an easy rinse-away cleanup. Whatever method you choose, containing overspray is an important part of mobile tanning—you certainly don’t want customers threatening to charge you for any stains left in their home.
Insurance. Before you even think about adding mobile tanning to your list of services, make sure your insurance carrier will provide coverage for airbrush tanning both in the salon and outside the salon. It is recommended that you address the following with your agent prior to beginning mobile tanning services: professional liability exposures, offsite value of your equipment, off-premise theft and money coverage, general liability coverage in the event of injury in someone’s residence, privacy issues and appropriate clothing for those being sprayed, the type of vehicle that will be used to transport the technician and equipment (work or personal), client age (will you offer services to minors?) and sex (will a female technician be allowed to spray a male client? vice-versa?).
Body Contouring
Body contouring is a special technique involves a person being airbrushed to accentuate muscle or minimize cellulite—overall, the process creates the perception of a more toned physique. This is done with an airbrush spraygun—which allows the technician to be very detailed in the contouring process—using two different shades of solution.
Basically, the technician shades and outlines certain areas (generally the abs, legs, chest and arms) to fake the look of muscle tone and hide imperfections. This works because the lighter areas appear to stand out more, while the darker areas—which are not as easily picked up by the eye—seem to fade away. In fact, many airbrush technicians say that a good body-contouring session can leave the client looking 10 to 15 pounds lighter. For those who are thinking about offering contour services, there are a few things to keep in mind:
Location. Where your salon is located can have a serious impact on how successful this service will be. For example, while body contouring is a popular service among the large actor/actress/model demographic in the L.A. area, it might not garner the same attention in a smaller, more rural setting.
Training. Body contouring requires training beyond that of regular airbrush training because the technician is working with two different shades of solution and must be very detailed during the application process.
Price. Body contouring, just like regular spray tans, can be sold on an individual or package basis. The average price for a single session usually ranges from $65 to $100. Bonus: Body contouring is a popular mobile-tanning service as well—which means the price is even higher per session.
Sunless Solution
DHA, or dihydroxyacetone, was officially discovered to have skin-coloring properties in 1920 by a group of German scientists working with X-ray machines. The scientists noted that the substance, when spilled on skin, appeared to turn the area it touched a brownish shade.
Basically, DHA reacts chemically with amino acids contained in the surface layer of skin, creating tones of coloration from yellow to brown called melanoidins. In terms of tanning, melanoidins are similar in color to melanin (the substance in the skin that produces a tan in response to UV exposure).
The “tan” that occurs from DHA is non-toxic and the FDA added it to its list of approved cosmetic ingredients in the 1970s. Today it is considered the most-effective sun-free tanning additive and is the main active ingredient in all sunless tanning products. DHA concentrations within sunless products range from 1 percent to 15 percent, with professional products generally falling into the 5-percent to 15-percent range. The percentages correspond with the product’s coloration levels from light to dark.
Because manufacturers realize sunless is going to stick around—and because the solution is what ultimately gives a customer his or her sunless tan—they are spending more time in solution development. The ingredients are better than ever, and there are more solution varieties to give salon owners more options for customers.
DHA is available in varying shades to cater to all skin types and desired levels of darkness.
Erythrulose also is used in some solution. Four to five times the cost of DHA, erythrulose works synergistically with DHA to give a more natural-looking tan.
Some solutions contain cosmetic bronzers that give an instant tan color until the DHA begins to develop two to four hours later; other types of solutions, often called “clear,” come without those cosmetic bronzers to ensure there is no staining or streaking. Solution vendors often provide both types to appeal to a wider range of sunless tanning needs.
In addition, sunless spray solutions are being loaded with the best nutrients, moisturizers and other skin-pampering ingredients such as aloe, vitamins, hyaluronic acid, tyrosine and CoQ10. Solution makers are paying more attention to fragrances, too.
Regulations and Certification
Since it is relatively new, sunless remains largely unregulated. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration currently has no regulations concerning DHA or sunless products, but that is not to say there may be changes on the horizon.
The best the tanning industry can do is keep a watchful eye on local and national legislation—and, in the meantime, take a proactive approach and become as educated as possible about the sunless-tanning process.
In July 2003, the FDA released information on DHA. Its use in cosmetics—including sunless tanning products—is restricted to external application. According to the Code of Federal Regulations, “externally applied” cosmetics are those “applied only to external parts of the body and not to the lips or any body surface covered by mucous membrane.”
Salon staff should take extra care in informing clients to avoid breathing the sunless product during the application process. Consumers also should be told to try to avoid direct application of the product into the eye area, and use a lip balm or other barrier product on the lips and in the nostrils to avoid contact with mucous membrane. There should be proper ventilation for staff and clients in the sunless application area of the salon.
The National Tanning Training Institute offers two courses—with online options—for staff who want to expand their knowledge of the sunless process while enhancing sales and service.
- The Introduction To Sunless Tanning course covers the basics of sunless tanning. It is designed to help salon employees address customer needs and promote this increasingly popular service. Sunless tanning has opened up a limitless market, satisfying not only the tanning enthusiast but individuals who otherwise choose not to tan—indoors or outdoors—or who cannot achieve a tan. This course provides sunless tanning basics, an understanding of how they work, clears up any misconceptions of this application and provides tips on using this service to increase profits.
- The Sunless Airbrush/HVLP Technician course recently was updated and is designed specifically for the airbrush or HVLP technician. Based on research and tests conducted by leading manufacturers of sunless-spray systems, this course takes the technician from setup to application while discussing technique, safety, pricing and more.
Sunless Retail
Self-tanners have gained popularity in the past few years for a number of reasons. The medical community’s condemnation of UV light has caused some sun worshippers to seek refuge indoors. And while indoor tanning offers a controlled environment and all the comforts one could want, the media’s incisive industry bashing has caused some fear to getting in a tanning bed.
Another reason self-tanners are popular is the ease of application and upkeep. Years ago, self-tanners were messy and difficult to apply. Today, application has been refined and products have gained a respectable place in industry.
In addition, many salon owners are noticing a trend toward clients covering their faces with towels to avoid premature wrinkling. Sunless tanners are the perfect remedies for those telltale towel lines on face and neck. In addition, it is a great product for those people who have problems tanning or for those difficult areas to tan such as the feet and hands. Sunless tanners also can be used to fill in pressure points and even out tan lines. And, for some fair skin people, sunless tanners can be used to augment the tanning process.
When applying the self-tanner, special attention should be paid to the knee, elbow, ankle and eye areas. The reason? Color is proportional to the surface area of the skin, and these areas are likely to become darker because there is a higher concentration of self-tanner in the fine lines.
It’s also important to wait for the product to dry completely before getting dressed, since DHA interacts with proteins and can stain some fabrics. Also, avoiding the hairline is crucial since hair is protein and self-tanners will cause it to discolor.
Once the color has fully developed, another coat of self-tanner may be added to darken the tan. Mistakes and uneven patches can be fixed easily by exfoliating the area or by adding more self-tanner. Make sure to tell clients to allow self-tanners to dry before beginning any activity, as sweat during application can cause an uneven or streaked tan.
Since self-tanners work on the top layer of skin, the average tan only will last for approximately three to four days, gradually fading as the top layer dries and flakes off. Salon operators need to remind customers that self-tanners don’t contain any sunscreen and even though their skin is tan, they still can get sunburned.
In addition, because DHA often is associated with skin dryness, it is important to suggest a moisturizer to complement self-tanners. Not only will it alleviate the dryness, but it will ensure another sale for you during typically slow months.
