Tanning lamps are an important part of your business—it won’t matter how sleek your equipment looks if your lamps cannot provide clients with a great tan. That’s why lamps are traditionally the second-largest investment a salon owner makes.
However, in order to make a smart investment, you have to understand tanning lamps—the different types, how they work, how to care for them, when to replace them ... and on and on. It’s a lot of information—and some of the lingo can be difficult to understand—so, we compiled a list of some of the most frequently asked questions regarding tanning lamps and researched the answers. (And tried to explain the tech-y details in the simplest way possible). You’re welcome.
What are the different types of lamps?
The different types of tanning lamps are determined by the phosphors used and by the UV-transmission properties of the lamp glass. The main types are:
- Low-pressure lamps (also known as fluorescent lamps) are gas-discharge lamps—the gas discharge takes place when a stream of electrons strikes the molecules of mercury vapor. These become excited or acquire an excess of energy, which subsequently is emitted as ultraviolet radiation with a wavelength of 254 nm. That ultraviolet light then strikes the phosphorous coating on the inside of the tube and the excited phosphorous creates visible light.
- RUVA lamps (also called reflector lamps) have an internal reflective coating that typically covers a 220-degree area of the inside of the lamp, focusing all output through the front end of the lamp. This provides more intense UV output, which reduces the required exposure times.
- HO, or “high output” lamps operate on an 80- or 100-watt ballast, and are found predominantly in tanning beds.
- VHO, or “very high output,” lamps feature high power consumption—generally between 140 watts and 160 watts, but can be more than 200 watts. They are found most often in stand-up units and larger beds.
- High-pressure lamps (also known as metal halide lamps) are small quartz lamps with very intense ultraviolet output. Specifically, compared to low-pressure lamps, high levels of UVA radiation are produced, resulting in a strong, immediate tanning effect.
Why do my lamps have a funky black ring around the ends?
The funky black ring—also know as end darkening or blackening—can be attributed to electron-emissive material. Basically, a lamp contains coils (called cathodes) that are coated with an electron-emissive material to assist in the release of electrons from the coils. When the lamp is started, the cathodes heat up, and the emissive material evaporates and spreads to the wall of the glass lamp tube. To you, the material deposit appears gray or black. But, not to worry—end darkening does not reduce the tanning power of the lamp or influence its effectiveness in any way.
Is metering really necessary?
Yes! As a general rule, lamps need to be replaced when they’ve lost 25 percent to 30 percent of their original UV output—but how will you know when your lamps reach that point if you are not metering them? In general, it’s good practice to take regular lamp readings of UV performance (you should take a reading when the lamps are installed and once every week thereafter).
Three pocket-sized UV meters are required to perform this task accurately—one to give you combined totals of UVA and UVB output, one to meter UVB output only and one to identify MEDs per hour to determine a unit’s maximum session time. When using a UV reader, try to take the reading in the exact same place each time—this helps to ensure the most accurate results. Also let the lamps and equipment warm up for 2 to 3 minutes before taking a reading. That period allows the lamps to reach a state of “thermal equilibrium.” Think about using a lamp log to jot down all of the daily readings.
Overall, the life cycle of a lamp is based on many factors—including proper cooling, adequate voltage range, on/off cycles and equipment design. That is why it is best to invest in meters and take regular readings to ensure you know exactly how your equipment is performing.
As a bonus, regularly metering your lamps can also help you identify when your acrylics need to be replaced. Specifically, a UVB meter can be used to assess your acrylics—as acrylic degrades, it blocks the transmission of UVB, which skews your reading. If you suspect that diminished irradiance is a result of bad acrylics, you can test your theory by taking one reading with the acrylic in place and one reading with the acrylic removed. If you get a significantly different reading—off by 20 percent or more—the acrylic is the issue, not the lamp.
